Saturday, December 14, 2013

Polystyrene Foam Types and Specifications: XPS & EPS

Below are some foam specifications for XPS available in the U.S.

psi = pounds per square inch (compressive strength)
pcf = pounds per cubic foot (density)

Dow "Blue Foam" (XPS):

STYROFOAM™ High Load 100 -- 100 psi min. compressive strength (density, 3.0 pcf)
STYROFOAM™ High Load 60 = 60 psi min. compressive strength (density, 2.2 pcf)
STYROFOAM™ High Load 40 -- 40 psi min. compressive strength (density, 1.8 pcf)
STYROFOAM™ Brand Square Edge Insulation -- 25 psi (density, 1.6 pcf)
STYROFOAM™ Brand Square Edge Insulation (U.S. Only)
STYROFOAM™ Brand Residential Sheathing (RS) -- 15 psi (1.3 pcf)
Dow Blue Foam Densities (Dow Building & Construction Answer Center)

Owens-Corning "Pink Foam" (XPS also):

Foamular 1000 -- 100 psi, 3.0 pcf density
Foamular 600 -- 60 psi, 2.2 pcf density
Foamular 400 -- 40 psi, 1.8 pcf density
Foamular 250 -- 25 psi, 1.55 pcf density
Foamular 150 -- 15 psi,  1.3 pcf

XPS & EPS Foams

Dow Blue Foam ("Styrofoam") and Owens-Corning Pink Foam (Foamular) are extruded polystyrene (XPS).  XPS is a closed-cell polystyrene foam that is not porous (made light by injecting a blowing agent during polystyrene extrusion, that causes small bubbles to form in the polystyrene as it comes out of the extrusion die) and therefore does not absorb water.  Resin does not adhere well because the foam is not porous (less surface area for bonding because there are no connecting passages, open spaces, between cells) and some gas is released from the cells when they are ruptured.  Some surfboard builders claim good success glassing XPS after the shaped core (final) is scored/roughed with 20-50 grit sandpaper.

EPS foam is expanded polystyrene.  EPS is made by heat fusing polystyrene beads. There are air spaces between beads, which means it will soak up water, but epoxy resin bonds well to it in the 2.0-2.5 pcf densities.  It can be found in 1.0-3.0 pcf densities.  The 2.0-2.5 pcf densities are often used for surfboard cores  -- vacuum veneer sandwich technologies have been used for EPS densities less than 2.0 pcf.


Foam Skateboard Press Requirements

Based on numerous posts/threads at silverfishlongboarding.com as well as information at roarockit.com, you want a foam with a minimum compressive strength no less than 15 psi for skateboard presses/molds.  This is because atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi (for vacuum pressing).
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What is EPS Foam?


The information below can be found at the following link.  It is a good brief discussion about EPS  and XPS foams:


E.P.S. stands for Expanded Poly Styrene and is a lightweight product that is produced by expansion of small solid plastic particles of polystyrene.  The plastic polystyrene expansion is achieved by the virtue of small amounts of pentane gas dissolved into the polystyrene base material during its production.  Butane gas or propane gas can also be used as a blowing agent, however the Pentax gas is most environmentally friendly.
The gas that has been introduced expands under the action of heat that is applied in the form of steam which then forms the polystyrene particles into perfectly closed cells of EPS.  The beads are sorted by weight and size and allowed to age for a given period before proceeding on to the next stage of production.  The EPS closed cell beads are then molded into various forms suited to their application.  This process has now transformed the beads which now occupy approxmately 40 times the volume of the original polystyrene granule.

The manufacturing of EPS foam process takes several steps in order to produce the materials and products we have all come to know. 
The polystyrene particle granules are pre-expanded by free exposure to steam which produces closed cell non-interconnecting beads.

After the pre-expansion, the beads still contain small quantities of both condensed steam and pentane gas and are allowed to cool in large silos where the air gradually diffuses into the pores, replacing in part the two expansion components of steam and pentane gas
.
The beads are allowed to age and go through this diffusing process after which the beads are moulded to form blocks or customized formed products.  The mould serves to shape and retain the beads in a pre-form shape and then steam is once again applied to promote additional expansion.   During this application of the steam and pressure causes the fusion of each bead to its neighboring beads, resulting in a homogenous end product.

Once the product is allowed to cool for a short time, the product is removed from the mould for further conditioning or cut into various shaped by use of hot wire devices or other appropriate techniques.

Regrind

Some foam manufacturers will use recycled or ground up foam material mixed with their virgin foam which is a great way to recycle the material.  While environmentally a very sound process to produce some products, the end product will not have the same structural integrity.

Porosity of EPS Foam

EPS foam by its nature is mostly air, and depending on the density of the foam, there will be more or less air between the fused closed cell beads of EPS.  The higher the density, the more beads and consequently the less space for air between the beads.  

There is some confusion between water absorption with EPS foam and fusion of the beads.  Because of the porosity of the foam, the water absorption is a product of how much air or space there is between the closed cell beads of EPS.  It is therefore possible to have foam that has low water absorption and poor fusion, which makes for a poor quality product for use as a surfboard or paddleboard product.

By using a higher pentane EPS foam, the beads are allowed to expand and improve fusion while reducing the porosity of the foam, hence less water absorption. 

XPS Foam

XPS stands for Extruded Poly Styrene, and is made from a completely different process than the EPS foam.  The XPS foam product starts as a solid polystyrene resin granule, which is then fed into an extruder or die where the granules are melted and then have critical additives mixed with this now viscous fluid.  This fluid then has a blowing agent injected to make the material foamable.  Under carefully controlled conditions where both heat and pressure are used, this foamable material is then forced through a fixture or die at which time the foaming takes place.  The rigid foam is then trimmed into the final dimensions or blocks.  This process produces a completely different cell structure to the foam from EPS. 

This process provides a material called "Styrofoam", which is a Dow Chemical trademarked name.  Mistakenly, most people assume the EPS that is used for coolers and coffee cups is "Styrofoam", but it should be correctly referred to as EPS or beaded EPS foam.  Dow has been making the blue "Styrofoam" for well over 50 years, and the material has extensive use in the building trade.

While the material can be used in the production of surfboards, there are some inherent challenges.  One problem is that the material is made primarily in 8 ft sheets and only 6 to 8 inches thick.  This limits the size of the surfboard that is to be designed.  Another problem that can cause issues is the outgassing of the foam over time.  This can also cause delaminating of the fiberglass laminate.  While some techniques have been developed to minimize this problem, it still remains a challenge.  There have been some improvements to the manufacturing process, and the outgassing problem may be minimized and manageable.


Hotwire Foam Cutters

Information about DIY hotwire foam cutters can be found at this link:


http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2011/01/i-spent-over-8-weeks-trying-to-find-all.html

XPS Bonding/Sealer Coat?
To read about these tests click the following link:

http://shedtech.blogspot.com/2014/12/xps-peel-panel-tests.html































Saturday, October 5, 2013

Making a Surfboard Template from a Photo or Image

Making a template from an image or photo is very similar to a method for re-sizing a full-size surfboard template.

The following can be done with math solely (see last 7 paragraphs).  Basically you are proportionally re-sizing the image to the length and width you would like for your template.

I will assume you have the picture saved on your computer.  The higher the image resolution is, the better the end result will be.

If you have Adobe Photoshop (or you can insert the image into a MS Powerpoint slide), crop the picture so that the surfboard shape just touches the sides of the cropped rectangle (the widest points, and the tail tip and the nose tip).  The image cropping box method is the quick approach but is less precise.

First re-size the cropped image's dimensions, with "proportions constrained" feature on ("aspect ratio locked"),  to be proportional to the desired "length" (e.g. 7" for 7 feet or 14" for 7' or 21" for 7' etc.)

Next, decide what width you want the board to be.  Turn off constrained proportions (unlock aspect ratio) and type in the width dimension you want using the same scaling used for the length (2" = 1', etc.).

Save and you have a shape that matches your desired dimensions.  (The larger you make the image the more pixelated the outline will become).

You can now transfer the image to graph paper or to template material by plotting measurements onto template material with a grid marked on it (e.g. 1-inch or 2-inch squares).  The template shape will have the exact dimensions you want, based on the dimensions of the re-sized picture.

Use a good top or bottom view photo, and decide the desired length and width dimensions.  BTW the surfboard in the photo/image you will use must aligned in the vertical dimension like atomized's picture (below) for an easy computer crop.  Otherwise, you need to print, crop by hand, then scan and re-size.

I have used a photo posted by atomized at Swaylocks.com for a quick demonstration (cropping not perfect).  Hand cropping and re-scanning is needed for photos not aligned with vertical or horizontal axes.  Again, all of this can be done mathematically using the original image dimensions multiplied by the proportional change in the desired dimension.

1.  First picture, cropped "quickly" and image length re-sized to 9" = 9'..


Then proportionally re-sized to 7" for a 7' board with dimensions proportional to the original 9' shape, 7" = 7' (width narrows, Aspect Ratio Locked).




Length re-sized to 7" (7') but width remains the same as the original 9' board. (Aspect Ratio Unlocked).






2.  Another example using a Donald Takayama Scorpion photo:

Below, the original image was "quickly" cropped, re-sized proportionally and scaled so length would be 5'10" (Proportions Constrained, Aspect Ratio Locked) width would be less than 21.25", scale 2" = 1'.






After the Image above was re-sized and scaled to a length of 5'10", width was then changed to 21.25" with "proportions not constrained" (Aspect Ratio Unlocked), scale 2" = 1'





Blowing up a photo to full size is not the way to go.  Enlarging the photo to scale -- 1 to 3 inches = 1 foot -- keeping the outline reasonably well defined and then re-plotting to template material, with or without a graph paper intermediate, is the way to use photos or images without using CAD driven design software.

In the Scorpion example, I would not draw a center line/stringer line.  I would measure image width at regular intervals and then divide by 2 for re-plotting as a template.  I like to true up the shape with french curves or ships curves on graph paper before re-plotting to template material.  Even though the photo images are re-sized in inches, I measure the image dimensions in millimeters for re-plotting to graph paper.  The flexible rod/wood-strip method could be used to connect outline points plotted directly onto the actual template material also.

I decided I needed to brush up on my basic Photoshop skills.  So I created several different versions of a much cleaner re-sized Scorpion image, in PNG format (images at bottom of page).  For a surfboard 21.25" wide and 5'10" long, the actual surfboard "image dimensions" should be 3.54 inches wide by 11.666 inches long, where 2 inches = 1 foot.

BTW I did not actually use the cropping method mentioned above.  It is quick and easy but less accurate.  It is easier to explain and demonstrate the re-sizing technique that way also.

Basically, I re-sized the entire original photo of the image.  That re-sized scale image is at the bottom of this page.

1. Print original image.
2. Measure printed surfboard image length and width.
3. Re-size original photo proportionally to get the correct length to for the desired scale.
4. Using the scale for the new length, calculate the desired width in inches and the proportional change.  For example, let us say the new scaled length should be 10 inches.  Original image length is 7 inches.  Proportional change is 10 divided by 7 = 1.43.
5. Unlock constrained proportions (aspect ratio), then proportionally re-size "photo width" accordingly.
6.  Save.
7.  If necessary. I crop the re-sized photo to fit my desired paper size.

Then measure and plot on graph paper or convert re-sized photo dimensions to full-size units and transfer to the grid on the template material.

This can be done using JPEG or PDF template images too to get any combination of length and width.


Re-sizing an Image/Photo with Math

Re-sizing can be done using math solely, re-plotting adjusted dimensions on graph paper or a template grid -- without computer programs.  Let's say the original image is 7.5 inches long and 2.06 inches wide.  You decide you want a scale of 2 inches = 1 foot.  The desired scaled size of the new image is 3.54 inches wide and 11.666 inches long -- for a board that will be 21.25 inches wide and 5 feet 10 inches long.  First, measure image widths at regular intervals along the length of the original image.  For example, you could measure image widths every 0.5 inch along the length.

Now, divide the desired scaled image length of 11.666 inches by the original image length (7.5 inches).  That gives you 1.555.  This is the proportional increase of original image length needed.  So multiply the 0.5-inch length intervals by 1.555 where you measured widths.  Your scaled width measurements will now be every 0.778 inch along the new length of 11.666 inches, rather than every 0.5 inch along the original image length of 7.5 inches.

Widths must now be proportionally re-sized.  Divide desired scaled image max width (3.54 inches) by original image max width (2.06 inches).  Divide 3.54 by 2.06 and you get the proportional increase needed (1.72) for the original image widths measured.  That is, multiply each of the original image widths you measured by 1.72.  You will plot these new widths every 0.778 inches along the new scaled length of 11.666 inches.  Now plot these points on graph paper or template material.  Connect these plotted points with a smooth curve and you are ready to make your template.
Measuring the images in millimeters is more precise, 1.0 inch = 25.4 millimeters.

December 23, 2015

Re-sizing a Full-Size Surfboard Template with Math

It is easy to proportionally re-size a full-size surfboard template and maintain clean curves that are derived from the original template shape.  For re-sizing, you will divide desired length or width by original template length or width, respectively.  
[For an expanded discussion using Lis Fish figures, click this link:
http://bgboard.blogspot.com/2016/01/re-sizing-full-size-surfboard-template.html ]

For this simple example, the objective is to increase template/surfboard width from 19.75" to 21".  Divide 21" by 19.75".   This gives you 1.063.  Measure widths of the full-size template at 12" intervals.  Now multiply each of the these widths by 1.063 and you have the new widths for the same 12" intervals.  Plot and connect these new width points with a smooth, continuous curve.  You could use the old template or a flexible strip/batten to draw the curved outline.

To make a template shorter, divide the new length (74”) by the old template length (80").  Divide 74” by 80” (= 0.925).  Now place the previous template widths at 11.1" intervals (0.925 x 12") instead of 12" intervals.  Plot the points and connect them with a smooth, continuous curve.

To improve nose and tail shape resolution, you can measure template widths at 1-inch intervals for the first several inches, starting at the template tips/ends.  Similarly, rather than using 12-inch intervals to measure the original template widths, you could use 2- to 3-inch intervals.  Whatever length interval suits you.  The closer together the width measurements are, the better the shape resolution will be overall.
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Monday, August 19, 2013

Dolphin Wing: Wing-Tail Surfboard Design



To parallel the Surfing Industrial Complex, I have decided to name this tail design the AKA-Stoneburner.

The design is real and the story true -- no satire, no mock.

I had an idea over 2 years ago.  The original design concept was de novo and inspired by the dolphin tail (a marine cetacean).

It started as an all curves design and evolved into an angular (modified) dolphin tail. As such, it had/has nothing to do with the Johnson Stealth or Tomo surfboard tail designs.  I never saw either before I created this modified dolphin tail design.

I was too lazy to hand draw a dolphin tail or get out my large aluminum french curve.  So I used Photoshop to rotate, flip, re-size and print 2 copies of a Griffin fin template that was posted at Sways awhile back.  I taped the printed copies together to create a conceptual dolphin-tail diagram (the black line curves). I put the diagram in a drawer.

After several days of rumination, I took the conceptual dolphin-tail diagram out of the drawer.  I decided I did not like the curved shape created by the Griffin fin templates.  I decided to use a fin that I own (the red pencil-line curve) to create a modified dolphin-tail curve.

Weeks and months passed.  The design evolved into an angular dolphin tail (yellow, pink and blue highlighted lines), the AKA-Stoneburner.


It is all about physics.


Let the games begin ...

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August 20, 2013

Find the popes in the pizza.
If you look closely, the diagram contains at least 4 different design variants.

BTW the AKA-Stoneburner name is tongue-in-cheek mock.
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August 22, 2013

I posted the original inspiration and concept evolution so some could see how I arrived at the design.
It is interesting to see how others interpret the design.  It is a bit like art.  Everybody sees something different, and has their own take about using the concept.
A template is 2-dimensional.  There is a 3rd dimension.  That dimension is the component that motivated the development of my modified dolphin-tail concept.  The tail template is the foundation for the 3-D element (the secret sauce) ...
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August 25, 2013

Since I have given one Swaylock's member the recipe for my secret sauce, it seems only fair that I post the essence for everybody.

I am a scientist at the core.  One of the basic tenets of true science is to make information/discoveries available to all.

A template is 2-dimensional (horizontal layout).  The 3rd dimension would be the shape or profile of the tail in vertical section.  The main ingredient for my secret sauce is the asymmetric foil.  I developed the angular dolphin-tail concept because I felt it would be the best foundation for incorporating an asymmetric foil.  Basically, the modified dolphin tail is a WingTail -- not to be confused with bumps on a rail.

More later ...







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I  have made a career of helping others make money with my ideas, depressing at times.  Furthermore, patents are a scam.  They are for those with unlimited funds (corporations and the wealthy).   

Patents are like poker with a $10K - $20K minimum bet.  If you cannot call the raise, you lose.  
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August 26, 2013

Below are my perceptions about incorporating asymmetric foil into a Wing-Tail surfboard:

I found this Greenlight diagram at the beginning of August.  I decided it would be a useful tool for communicating my perceptions about the performance mechanism of a wing-tail with asymmetric foil.  The Greenlight diagram is conceptual.

https://ee9503591a-custmedia.vresp.com/24823b9b52/1%204.jpg


The axis of the foil chord (wing rib) would be oriented at a 45-degree angle relative to the center/stringer line, towards the nose.  Envision the "apparent" water flow relative to the bottom of the surfboard tail at a 45-degree lean angle.  The axis of orientation could potentially range from 40-60 degrees relative to the nose of the board.  A 45 degree axis of orientation would be the all-around general purpose angle.

The word "drive" can be vague when used to describe surfboard performance.  I will use it here to describe the force that opposes side-slipping during the centrifugal acceleration of turning.

My take on the principal forces opposing gravitational and centrifugal acceleration is that they are shifting and transitioning in and out of ram lift and centripetal force.  Both would be related to velocity, mass and total bottom surface in contact with water.

As the board and surfer lean into a hard turn, much of the bottom surface is out of contact with the water.  Most of the water contact is being made in the tail section.  Apparent water flow shifts from parallel to the stringer to 45 degrees across the stringer (relative to the nose).  As the board leans into a turn there is less surface area in contact with the water to generate centripetal force and prevent side-slipping and spin-out.  As the fins move from perpendicular to horizontal relative to the water surface, there effectiveness diminishes.
For hard turns generated by "driving" off the rail and/or tail, surface area is needed to resist drifting and spin-out.  The deeper the lean angle or tighter the cutback, the less bottom and fin surface available to push against the water and resist side-slipping/drift (photos below).

As you approach the 45-degree lean, the angled wingtail foil (wing section either side) begins to generate lift as a foil, reaching a peak when apparent water flow is at a 45-degree angle to the stringer line.  My perception is, that would generate significant resistance via lift with minimal surface area (in addition to centripetal force) -- snappier responsiveness in hard turns.

That is, a wing-tail foil surface area of  23 sq. in. (right or left side only) should generate approximately 325 lb of lift ("drive") at 12 mph -- independent of centripetal force.

My choice of bottom for the wingtail concept is flat in the tail section.

August 27, 2013 
am

Another, simple application for asymmetric foil is a Square WingTail.

The foils are triangles rather than trapezoids:


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August 27, 2013 
pm

The last ingredient for the sauce:

I chose the NACA 4415 profile as my general purpose shape for the WingTail foils.



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August 30, 2013

I believe the lift is progressive, hitting maximum after the turn has been initiated and when a 45-degree lean angle has been reached, to augment the turn.  I could be wrong.

The tail wings represent a very small area of the surfboard, at the tail's tips -- about 25 sq. in. per wing (e.g. 5" x 5").  As lean angle nears 45 degrees, the wings should be fully immersed.  More air than around a fin?  I cannot say.

The design calls for the foil chord (e.g. long axis of a wing rib) to be angled toward the nose at a 45-degree angle relative to the stringer/center line.  This differs from the foil chord axis (wing rib) of an airplane which is parallel to the fuselage (center line).
Whether this will generate signficant lift and a performance change, I cannot say with any degree of certainty.  The asymmetric foil shape is a concept for testing. The tail wings are horizontal fins as well.
There are many possible wingtail foil profiles.
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March 15, 2015

This post has become too long.  To see the latest evolution and progression of this tail shape click the following link:

Saturday, June 15, 2013

MountainBoard (MB) & MB-Longboard Hybrids: Custom Assmemblies / Builds

MountainBoard-Longboard Hybrid
June  14, 2013

I put this together for my son who has an injured left ankle (4 surgeries).  He loves it ...


Thanks to my SD bruthas MarkBrosnan and Brennig for the wheel suggestions, Bennet Alligators and Abec 11 Gumballs.  My son chose the Abec 11 Gumballs, 76 mm x 75 A.


MBS Jeep Rennegade deck and MBS ATS trucks (15.75" axles).








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Street-Rig MountainBoard Build:  Surf-style Carver
November 20, 2011

Cotton print lam -- Hawaiian hibiscus:
(Tip: iron fabric before lamming with epoxy resin)


Deck surface without fiberglass skin.



Deck with double layer of 4-oz S glass plain weave over cotton print (S-glass is not as clear as E-glass).


Build progression from Baltic Birch Core, Aluminum tips and 6-oz X-Glass + 6-oz Carbon Fiber bottom.
(Bottom was finalized with a 4-oz S-glass outer laminate to improve stiffness).





Custom street-rig MB assemblies built with commercially available components -- for surf-style carving (16" & 18" axles, left and right respectively, with 8-3.00-4 Cheng Shin smooth tires):